A centuries-old craft, Malian mudcloth, or bokolanfini, is an important part of the culture and economy of the Bamana of Mali. Although the origins of this technique are lost in time, international attention has kept the skill alive and caused a revolution in the making of these intricately patterned cloths.
Bokolanfini are traditionally made using indigenous materials. Cotton is gathered and processed into cloths called finimougou, which are then dyed yellow using leaves from the N’Galaman and N’Tjankara trees. After drying, mud collected from ponds and fermented for a year is applied to the cloth to form the background of patterns. The dye interacts chemically with the mud, turning it black and making it set. After up to three coats of mud have been applied, the yellow dye is rinsed out, leaving stark white on black patterns.
Traditional bokolanfini designs often represent a local hero, legend, or historical event. Colors, although rarely employed, also have some symbolism. Rust or gray denote a hunter or warrior and provide camouflage for the wearer, while white is often worn by women during ceremonies.
International interest in bokolanfini is increasing today due to the nationalist trends that accompanied many African countries’ independence, as well as the attention they gained when Malian designers incorporated bogolan items into fashion lines. Most exported bokolanfini today are factory made using stencils and non-traditional materials, but the original art is still alive in Bamana villages and will hopefully remain so for years to come.